Last Thursday, as
Nicolas Maduro was being inaugurated to six more years as Venezuela’s
president, I was busy climbing up and down my many lemon trees with
friend Fabi, collecting scratches galore, along with 120 pounds of bright
yellow fruit. We filled two burlap sacks and I glowed knowing that
their sale would provide for necessary items we can neither grow nor
barter: oil, salt, flour, toilet paper.
I never cease to be
amazed at the beauty of what nature and I working together can
produce. And I never cease to be amazed at the ugliness of what
self-interest in Venezuelan politics can produce. Lemons - bitterness, beauty, thorns and all, seemed a
fitting image to accompany this particular inauguration day.
In our Venezuela of the past, lemons were used to make lemonade, to squeeze over fried fish, to give a twist to a rum and coke. All the ingredients
needed for those combos are long gone now.
With lemons seeming superfluous now, Ledys and I decided to allow ourselves to sell them, our first fruit sale in two decades of planting trees. All the other fruit we grow – mangoes, avocados, oranges, guavas, etc - thousands of pounds yearly – is given away to neighbors in ourd small village of Palo Verde. Their calories help to fill in the missing blanks.
After we dropped off
the two sacks of lemons at the mega-cooperative CECOSESOLA (one of
the few remaining projects in Venezuela that actually works, very
well) we were given a receipt for Bss 21,800. About $20.
We had to wait until
the next day to collect the lemon payment, which made us a bit
anxious. With inflation now pegged at two million percent annually,
prices can double in two to three days (or two hours). When we
finally received the funds - in cash, in a sack - it felt like we had
won the lottery. And, we knew we had to spend it fast.
As we crossed the city from end to end end in search of open stores and affordable
prices, we discovered that few vendors would accept our Bss 10 bills. By next week - they told us - those
bills will be obsolete. After two days of supply-hunting, the sum of
our treasures fit into one small Trader Joe’s tote bag. Still, with
my tote-sized supplies for a month, I felt like a queen, crowned by
my lemons.
For his new term of
presidency that began on my lemon-picking day, Maduro received a
sash. But perhaps a crown of lemons would have been more fitting.
Lemons are both
beautiful and bitter. To those who believe that some day Maduro will
resurrect Chavez’s dream of 21st socialism, it would be a bright beautiful golden crown. They remember the free doctors on almost every corner, the
classrooms bursting with students - of all ages - day and night, the
cheap and abundant food, the two million free houses. The seemingly indestructible hope of a
people who have been excluded for generations, upon suddenly being
included. Who doesn’t want to hold on to that
dream?
To the two or three
million Venezuelans who cast their vote with their (tired) feet –
some literally walking to Colombia and beyond - Maduro’s lemon
crown is a bitter one. To those who struggle in vain to find enough
food for their families on a $6 minimum wage, or who furtively search
through garbage bags at night, it is a crown of thorns. To those who
believed that votes could bring about change - but whose candidates
were nixed from the presidential race – this is a crown not to be
honored.
To China and Russia
who hoist Venezuela up as a counterweight to US interests in Latin
America, Maduro’s crown is a glorious one. They promise to defend
it to the bitter end (encouraged by all that fabulous oil and gold). To the Trump
Administration, Maduro is not fit to wear
any crown. They are desperately trying to find someone – anyone
– to wear it.
Yesterday I went to the procession of Barquisimeto's virgin, the Divina Pastora, along with two million others. January is citrus month in Venezuela (yeah lemons!). Each year the city buys truckloads of citrus fruit to throw into the thirsty crowd. Last year it was tangerines. Several hundred of them, however, ended up not in the mouths of devote, but on the pristine uniforms of the Military High Command, as they prepared to take their seats on a viewing platform. The top brass quickly exited, all that delicious tangerine juice flowing down their dress whites.
This year the fruit
tossed to the crowd was oranges, and the target of all that citrus
was our state governor, who bears the double X of being both a
military officer and a politician. The wrath of so citizens coming face-to-face with those they perceive to be responsible for this disaster was a fuse. The power of
numbers and safety of anonymity lit the match. The spontaneous unleashing of citrus
power was a sight to be seen!
Part of me wanted to
collect every lemon remaining on my trees to help fuel this citrus
revolution. Lemon juice would definitely be the best collateral
damage one could hope for in a political sea change here. But then
again, I’m not sure who would would be the kingmaker and who would get the new crown.
So, I think I’ll
keep the rest of the lemons on my trees, and dispense them, poco a
poco. They might not be needed for lemonade or Cuba libres, but they
are a great stand-in for deodorant or toothpaste, both impossible to find. Likewise, as
disinfectant or cleanser, or with baking soda, a great criollo alka
selzer. And they help keep colds abay and digestion chugging along.
So, I’ll leave my lemons as a my mini contribution to the
healing of our nation, in hopes that maybe we’ll gain the strength
– someday - to dig ourselves out of this hole. And start to build
afresh. I guess I”m more of a bottom-up than top-down person
anyway.
But, boy, a spontaneous citrus revolution definitely sounds like more fun.
Lisa, what a beautiful and sad and true to the heart statement. I'm crying for you and Venezuela. John
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Wonderful and sad article Lisa. It sums up so poetically what I've been hearing from the many friends, many of whom I consider family, have been telling me. I try to help how I can from here but it's becoming increasingly harder. My heart breaks for Venezuela, just like it often does for Haiti. Fuerza.
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ReplyDeleteLisa, my heart is broken by the betrayal, intentional or not, of the Chavista dream with its early successes that you so beautifully experienced and described.
ReplyDeleteNow what? With Elliot Abrams, a US war criminal from the 1980's, Marco Rubio, and war-promoter John Bolton leading US campaign to install its best prospect for a permanent collaboration of the right wing in Venezuela, the US, and Brazil's extreme right, the prospects for positive change in Venezuela is unlikely.
The only hopeful light in my experience remains Bolivia, with an indigenous President that has continued to increase the economic and social well-being of its majority indigenous population, those who have been historically debased and excluded for centuries.
But that does not help you and those Venezuelans who remain, or the millions of Venezuelans who have fled amid hunger and desperation.
Lisa, thank you for your posts. You bring the human face and and experience to the headlines and news stories those of us with plenty of food and toilet paper in our homes.
Abrazos.
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