Tuesday, February 27, 2018

Andrés for President


My motley crew of running mates assembled at our gate just as the peaks of the Fumarola took on a soft pink glow. That last hour of daylight in these foothills of the Venezuelan Andes is the most magical of all.

As soon as I stepped outside, Andrés took my hand, with purpose. Knowing that I was new to running, he figured I would be safer jogging down the steep mountain road in the sure grip of his five-year-old hand.

I asked him the whereabouts of his older siblings - the twins, and the Pelona. His mom forbid them to run today, he said. Running made them even more hungry, and they were hungry enough. I’m not sure how Andrés was granted an exception, probably via those gentle doe eyes.

The runners, ages 5-13, were all members of our farming kids collective, Club Conuco Colibri. We had set Tuesdays and Fridays as days to run together, just for fun. Soon, we were off….. Whizzing past caraota and potato fields, past skinny cows and grazing horses, past sheep and shephards, past the eucalyptus trees casting shadows onto the irrigation lake.

The cool air mountain filled my lungs, the majestic Fumarola lifted my spirits and the warm hand of Andrés lifted my heart, I was flying, my worries about this imploding country flung aside, my anguish for these beloved little running mates tossed to the wind. As the gentle slope coaxed me easily downhill, I felt déja vu for the easy slide into good living Venezuela had experienced only a few years back. Healthcare, education, housing, food, the good life - it seemed there for everyone.

As we ran on and on Andrés held tight to my hand. I was not used to jogging while hand-holding (or jogging at all for that matter), but it was kind of nice. He had no problem keeping my pace.

Several kilometers later we reached our goal - the cotoperí tree right beside the churning river. We tumbled into a pile and Andrés plopped in my lap. We allowed ourselves to rest and to laugh and just be together. No need to think about the approaching night, or the long uphill walk home, or the hunger stirring in our bellies.

But as the mountain turned from pink to crimson, we rose quietly to begin the long return hike. How different the journey home: Arduous, steep, dark, dangerous, and with hunger in our bellies. Like that journey we are on now as a nation – or at least those of us remaining.

As crimson turned to black I realized that I was following these children, so sure-footed on this mountain. They looped their arms into mine, grounding me, guiding me, protecting me from unknown precipices, lurking snakes, ghosts of which they spoke quietly. As the stars began to fill the night sky, Andrés deposited me at my gate, tired but safe. Hasta mañana Lisa he said with a huge hug, then raced up the hill to his home, and probably an empty table.

Andrés is the youngest of our kids farming collective, which is best described as something of a ragtag 4H group, or perhaps a community CSA where kids are the farmers and the shareholders. It all started a few years ago - rather spontaneously, when my neighbor Fabi – then age 10 - showed up one day to help me plant (yet another) mango tree and asked when I would start planting something that turned into food more quickly. Until then, I had only planted fruit trees – hundreds of them, but admittedly, it took several years from digging a hole to getting something into your mouth.

This was just the beginning of the food crisis (little did we imagine…..) but Fabi already had a vision, as she eyed the only flat spot on my land, recently bulldozed for a future gazebo. She showed up at 6 am the next morning with her cousin Jonjon, a sack of goat manure, some bamboo poles and a plan. They set to work with hoes and shovels and by early afternoon we had some decent raised beds.

By the next weekend Fabi returned with 5 of her siblings, the next Sunday she showed up with 10 of her cousins, and before we knew it, we were gardening every Sunday morning with some 40 young neighbors. Soon, we were swimming in lettuce and chard, tomatoes and green beans, zucchini and kale.

Before long, salad veggies made room for higher calorie-protein crops craved by the hungry kids: yucca and plantains, squash and corn, a rainbow array of soup beans, growing on vines, bushes, covering trees and coffee plants. We even grew our spices, our medicine, our drinks and our bowls (via a totuma or gourd tree). And of course our sweets: mangoes, bananas, mamones, guamas, guabas, guanabanas, and much much more.

Andrés – my running mate - was all of three when he joined his three siblings - Morocho, Morocha and Pelona - those first Sunday mornings. I worried that he would just be in the way at such a young age, but far from it,. Each Sunday Andrés found a task to take on and set forth with unflagging determination and order. Often, his focus was the compost pile. Like a one-man army of ants, he spent hours carting buckets and buckets of materials to help it grow: leaves, sticks, weeds, peels, sheep poop, hay. He seemed to innately understand that this – a pile of discarded rotting objects, would become the key to our food, our lives.

Before long, teachers and community leaders were asking the kids to give workshops to share their pretty successful and unique techniques. Inevitably, Andrés offered to take over when the explanation of our compost system came its turn.

In our farming collective our leaders are quite simply those who work the hardest. The kids themselves decide who should be a “guia” , which basically means you have to do a whole lot more work than everyone else.

In our country of Venezuela, our leaders have been chosen by elections. All of a sudden, eight months ahead of schedule, a snap presidential election has been called, by the president. Causing everyone who is not the president to shuffle a bit. It’s a bit hard to get a presidential campaign together in a few weeks.

(Personally, I would be all for just calling forth those who just work the hardest like our guias of Conuco Colibri, but of course, that never works in politics.)

And so, that leaves one big problem. No one wants to run against the president. Some say because no one can beat him. Others say because the rules of the race are set by him and for him. But, no matter what, it’s become an embarrasing problem to find at least one running mates to make it look like a real election. An obscure evangelical pastor just stepped forward, but he so unknown and so scandal-clad that it´s a stretch to get him on the ballot.

So, here is my solution: Andres for President. Sure, he is only five years old. But he has a better handle on the solutions to Venezuela’s main problem than does the current president and the political opposition combined, hands down. He knows how to grow food. (Seems like no one else does in the country). He know how to work hard. (Granted, that is a bit hard these days since it costs more to go to work in a day than what you actually earn at work in a day.) He can turn a garbage dump into gold. (Handy, since our oil industry is all but kaputs). He gives a helping hand to those in need. (Seems better than giving a hand only to those who gives you the votes first).

And, listen, he has the cutest little doe eyes that would look fabulous on bilboards. He’s got my vote. Andrés for President.








Thursday, February 8, 2018

Watching Venezuela's collapse in slow motion

Several weeks ago El Negro sent me a message to say that his house had fallen down. The mud holding the old adobe blocks together gave way after three days of torrential rain, collapsing walls and roof. Thankfully, his three children were sleeping in the one room made of tin, that held firm. As a single dad, his world was these kids, and I could hear his relief in that part of the message.

I read his words while sitting on my porch, contemplating the majestic Fumarola mountain before me, mentally contrasting Venezuela’s natural beauty with the ugly chaos of its society today. El Negro had built that porch a month earlier, along with other projects in preparation for my son's wedding. 


As I received this news, El Negro’s collapsing home suddenly felt like a metaphor for Venezuela’s collapsing society. The image of the tumbling adobe bricks reverberated in my heart. Crash! Food disappearing from the shelves. Boom! Cash disappearing from the banks. Woosh! Young people disappearing from the country. Clang! Democracy disappearing from “elections”, Kaboom! Human rights disappearing from public discourse and action.

Unlike my doubts about the reconstruction of this decaying Venezuela, my hope in El Negro wasunflagging. This was a man who rose each day at 4 am to cook breakfast and lunch for this kids, before setting off for his morning job as a garbage collector. He never missed a day – even though the job paid less than a fifty cents a week, always holding out hope he might find a discarded pair of shoes to fix for the kids, a half-used pencil. After finishing his first job of the day, he set off to his second job of building.



I often wondered how he accomplished so much in one day as I
struggled to
do so little: dig one more hole in this hard red dirt for yet another banana tree, plant a few more quinchoncho bushes then spend hours in line to (try to) get gas to cook them. Then more hours searching the almost empty hardware stores for a few nails to fix my chicken’s coop to keep them safe from the marauding opossums. I always fall into bed exhausted, but with so little sense of accomplishment.

On the days that El Negro came to work at my house (always accompanied by one or two of his kids), we would pause in the late afternoon to share a cup of coffee. At that magical hour I felt their incredible bond, and the mystery behind the source of his boundless energy was solved.

Not surprisingly, El Negro built a few small adobe rooms for his children within weeks. While cooking the evening pot of beans over an open fire, his bare feet stomped the red earth to a gluey mix. Adobe brick by adobe brick, he raised the walls in the light of the full moon. Neighbors and friends rallied, and the solidarity he always showed to others was returned.

I can’t help but wonder: who will rebuild this Venezuela that is, literally, collapsing in front of me. Collapsing and crashing down over the heads of friends and neighbors, such as my friend Milagro, a single mom of two. Last month, her daily wage as a laborer in the potato fields was 8,000 bolivares per day, the equivalent of 20 US cents. Last week it was the equivalent of 8 cents. . This week it is worth 4 pennies a day. Next week? Like most of my neighbors, she toils in the sun all day, returning home with enough money to buy one tenth of one kilo of rice. She tells me that nightly her tears mix with the rumbling of her belly.


Collapsing and crashing the dreams of K, a newlywed, and one of my daughter’s best friends. As an obstetrician at the public hospital, she makes less than the bonus provided by the government to the pregnant women whose babies she delivers (about $8 per month) As she leaves work after her 24-hour shifts she tells me that she can barely walk straight , her exhaustion blurring with confusion about how to stay in this country she loves and start the new family she desires. She doesn’t want to follow the mass exodus of her colleagues.

Even for those who manage to make enough money to survive, they can’t access their money. My neighbor Vicente raises pigs, but can’t really use the money his clients pay him by bank transfer. It costs him 30,000 bolivares (about 9 US cents) to take a bus to his local bank, where the maximum daily withdrawal is 30,000, He doesn’t even have enough funds to return home

And for those who actually have some money and can access it, there is often nothing to buy. My compadre Ever joins most of the 1,000 households in my town in getting in line every Friday at 2 pm. at the town square. There, he deposits his ID card in a cardboard box held by a representative of the local coop, and says a prayer. If he is one of the lucky 250 people drawn by lottery, he can buy food at the coop at the weekend. If he is one of the unlucky 750, he will have to perform magic to feed his family. Scrounge some potatoes or black beans from already harvested fields.

As I witness this collapse of Venezuela -my home for three decades, and home to 28 million others, I look with desperation for our El Negro. Where are our architects, the engineers, the builders? Instead of being armed with mortar and bricks, they seem to be bearing sledge hammers, determined to finish off the destruction.

Bang go the sledgehammers of massive corruption and mismanagement by those at the helm.  Crash go the jackhammers of infighting and violence by those who long to be at the helm. Smash go the bulldozers of the giant to the North that threatens oil sanctions, in hopes of dislodging our foundation. Nearby nations stand by in muted shock, trying to absorb the mass of fleeing residents.



In this long dark night, in which master architects and builders have
warped into master destroyers, my faith in them has forever shattered. But as this blue blood moon rises, so does my faith in those who I always have known as builders. In El Negro. In Milagro and Vicente and Ever. Guided by the moonlight, and by the love for their children, and for this beautiful land, they will raise the new Venezuela.
It will be a long long arduous labor of love.